/etc/gEDA/gschem-gtkrc is in geda-gschem 1:1.8.2-5.
This file is owned by root:root, with mode 0o644.
The actual contents of the file can be viewed below.
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# gschem's gtkrc file
#
# A proportional font is not longer required
#
# Comment this in, if you want to change the font
#style "default"
#{
# font = "fixed"
#}
#widget_class "*" style "default"
#old way commented out, still works, but use the above block.
#style "defaultfont"
#{
# font = "fixed"
#}
# common default
#class "GtkWidget" style "defaultfont"
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